Played a little with fluorescent diving when I was in Australia. I'm by no means an expert and only completed a couple of fluoro dives. However, the dive centre was excellent and gave a very good and detailed crash course on the science behind it. Do take what's written here with a pinch of salt. Here's what I roughly remember from that brief talk:
The light used in fluoro diving isn't a UV black light, but rather it's a blue light at 420nm wavelength, which is very close to the ultraviolet (UV) band. The ultraviolet band consists of wavelengths 380nm to 10nm. 365nm is actually a true UV light. UV light is not visible to the human eye. The reason we have to use a yellow filter to actually see fluorescence during fluoro dives, is to filter out the blue light (420nm) that is visible to us. Without the filter, everything will just be seen as bluish, but when the yellow filter negates the blue light, the resulting fluorescence of the critter can be seen clearly.
If you're going for fluoro pictures, the 410nm light would be what you're looking for. 365nm wouldn't work, technically, since we can't see it, and there's lesser excitation at those wavelengths.
EDIT: Oh yes, the filters/lenses of some fluoro/uv lights may seem yellow, but they actually output blue or UV light. The glass is what's known as a dichroic filter. An example, this is for the strobes - http://www.ikelite.com/accessories/4069.1-dichroic-excitation-filter.html